阿慢打胃之不落閣

時間一久遠，印象越來越模糊，雖然當時拍了很多照片，可是我對克里特島和伊拉克利翁考古學博物館的認知實在很有限，也沒太多空閒時間可以一一查證，遊記只有一拖再拖，但是眼看2016年都來到十二月，再不趕緊加油，恐怕積欠到明年暑假也寫不完...

根據考古博物館的官網資料：博物館裡面的文物歷史最久從新石器時代(西元前7000年)到羅馬時期(西元第三世紀)，大部分的文物是米諾斯文明，為歐洲最早的文明。依照維基百科米諾斯文明的資料：

米諾斯歷史的各階段：
前7000 定居
前3100-前2100 米諾斯文明前期（EMI,II,III）
前2100-前1700 米諾斯文明中期（MMI,II,III）= 古宮殿時代
前1700- 前1420米諾斯文明晚期（LMI,II,III）=新宮殿時代
前1420- 前1050 邁錫尼時期

所以我的博物館之旅分成上中下，上的部分也就是米諾斯文明的前期，這一篇為中，是屬於米諾斯文明的中期，又稱為古宮殿時代。文物包含陶器，石雕器，印璽，小雕像，金屬物件，壁畫等等，出土的地點從皇宮，大宅，拓居地，墓地，洞穴等等多半是從克里特島的東邊和中部的考古地點。博物館本身是個現代建築，有二樓但我只有逛一樓，外觀很不起眼，博物館整個開放展出是從2014年開始。考古博物館最早成立於1883年，從二間展示廳開始漸漸擴建期間遇到地震和二戰時期的破壞，到現在正式開放展示間有27間。維基百科則解說十六間展示廳，我當時逛得很順，也沒注意那一廳，只能憑文物旁邊的英文說明牌，大致了解博物館的館藏。

 很有設計感的黑陶壺

Two cups and a bridge-spouted jar with relief decoration depicting felines among rocks and trees, and a marine landscape with crabs and seashells. Applied relief ornament of a sphinx with a feline body and the head of a woman from a vessel. This is one of the earliest depictions in Crete of this imaginary creature from the East. The jug with a relief medallion bearing an ape also indicates Eastern and Egyptian influences. Malia, Quartier Mu, 1800-1700 BC.

這二個花俏的陶瓶上面的浮雕有海洋和森林的意象。出土於Malia, Quartier Mu，西元前1800-1700年。

Clay female and male figurines in an attitude of worship. Chamezi, 1900-1700 BC.

陶人在祭拜，Chamezi, 西元前1900-1700年

Bronze tripod cooking pots. Clay tripod fruit-stands with a particularly decorative white floral and foliate composition and basin-strainer with drainage hole for the collected liquid. Malia, Quartier M, 1800-1700 BC.

 三腳銅鍋和三腳水果陶盤，出土於Malia, Quartier M，西元前1800-1700年。

Group of clay animal figurines, a ritual offering to a domestic shrine, and clay vessels. Galatas, 1900-1800 BC.

 中間那一坨是陶動物捏塑，是典禮的祭品，旁邊的陶杯非常好看，出土於Galatas，西元前1900-1800年。

Clay utensil with holes, probably used for food processing, such as crushing culinary. Kamares cave, 1900-1700 BC.

古代就知道把陶盆打洞當作食物調理機，出土於Kamares Cave，西元前1900-1700年。

Unusual kernos with three rounded vessels and base with double-axe-shaped incisions. Burial vessels of various shapes and sizes with relief and painted white and brown decoration. Archanes Phourni, 2100-1900 BC.

造型不尋常的陶器，稱作kernos是一種托盤上會有好幾個小杯，裡面可以放供品，出土於Archanes Phourni，西元前2100-1900年。

Clay sistrum, a model of a bronze percussion instrument. The sistrum, which originated in Egypt, first appeared in Crete during the Protopalatial period.Bell-shaped figurine, clay model of a ritual mask. Archanes Phourni, 2100-1900 BC. 

右邊看起來很像幼兒玩具的東西叫做叉鈴，源自於埃及，是古埃及祭拜Isis艾塞絲，生育和繁榮女神所使用的樂器，表示米諾斯文明時期就與古埃及互通有無，甚至將古埃及的文化傳入克里特島。左邊像鐘的東西是一個祭典用的面具。出土於Archanes Phourni，西元前2100-1900年。

◎ 鎮館之寶：蜜蜂墜子(展示廳I-III)

The Bee Pendant
This famous gold ornament from Malia is a pectoral pendant consisting of two bees depositing a drop of honey in their honeycomb. They are holding the round, granulated honeycomb between their legs and the drop of honey in their mouths. One their heads is a filigree cage containing a gold bead, while small discs hang from their wings and the sting. This is a true masterpiece of the jeweller's art, combining repousse, granulated, filigree and incised decoration. Malia, Chrysolakkos necropolis, 1800-1700 BC.

這個細緻的黃金打造的墜子出土於Malia的Chrysolakkos necropolis衛城，米諾斯文化三個重要的皇宮分別是 Knossos克諾索，Faistos還有Malia。我買的旅遊書只有介紹克諾索，也是最有名氣的，所以隔天我就搭公車去那邊，不過到現場考古區能看的東西不多，不如多花一點時間留在博物館就好，因為好東西全都搬來這裡放了。 

在西元前1800-1700，克里特島人已知如何煉金還可以將金打造成細緻的首飾和金箔雕花，這些金片也是從Malia的皇宮裡面挖掘出來的。

這個陶製的棺材有很多手把用在運送的時候可以綁繩子，出土於Vorrou西元前2100-1900BC

The First Palaces
The Emergence of Palatial Societies
Elaborate building complexes, known as the First or Old Palaces, were established at the centre of the large towns which emerged at the beginning of the 2nd millennium BC.
Parts of these early complexes, buried under the later new palaces have been identified and partially excavated at Knossos, Phaistos, Malia and Petras. They include dining areas, large assembly and ceremonial halls, storerooms and a central court.
Polychrome Kamares Ware vessels were used in palace banquets and attest the opulent lifestyle of the palatial ruling class through their quality, quantity and astounding decorative variety. Gold-sheathed luxury weapons, sceptres of authority, and precious jewellery also functional symbolically, stressing the social status, power and prestige of the palatial elite.
Writing was adopted to record goods, and complex sealing methods were develped, to ensure conformity of commercial transactions with the guarantee of the palatial administration.
Society was structured hieratchically, and skills and activities were differentiated. Figures weaving on looms, potters and hunters are depicted on seals while images of sailing ships reveal the presence of mariners.
Figurines, ornate offering vessels and the remains of anumal sacrifices show that cult took place in palatial and domestic contexts. The Old palaces were destroyed by fire circa 1700 BC. 

這一區所展示的文物是米諾斯文化的皇宮精華區，旁邊的說明牌我拍了照也一一打字下來，不過上面有打錯字，所以我大致翻譯說這些米諾斯時期的皇宮共有四個地方，除了Knossos, Phaistos, Malia 還有一個Petras，這些從皇宮挖掘出來的文物在質與量和精緻度上看得出來與一般平民老百姓所用的器具是不同的，在在顯現這是個社會階級制度分明的文明，文字的紀載會記錄在陶器上和印璽上，表示當時的海上交易很發達，貨運的輸送往來也都依靠文字的記載。挖掘出來的祭祀文物得知米諾斯文明有動物祭祀，而且禮器繁複精緻，但是這個米諾斯文化卻在西元前1700年因為大火而燒毀殆盡。

這些皇宮的器皿顯得精緻，顏色鮮豔。

Burial vessels of various shapes combining relief and painted, polychrome or white, decoration. Hagia Triada, 1900-1700 BC.

陪葬陶器出土於Hagia Triada西元前1900-1700年。 

Three prepalatial bones seals bear pictograms of the so-called Archanes Script(1900BC). The largest seal, from Archanes Phourni, also bears representational images on its fourteen sealing surfaces, such as a man with a basket, the palm of a hand, a leg, animals and a sistrum. The other two seals from Moni Odigitria and Gouves, and the clay sealing from Knossos, attest the use of this script in the Protopalatial period. 

西元前1900年米諾斯文明所發展的文字叫做Archanes Script，不知道是不是就是線性文字A。

各種印璽

這麼細緻的金屬豹，我竟然漏拍了說明牌。

手把有寶石的鑄鐵劍，出於克諾索。

Clay model of a wooden litter with a seat inside for carrying an important individual. In Egypt, similar wooden litters with a throne were used to transport statues of deities and of the Pharaoh in porcessions and ritual displays. Knossos, 1700-1600BC. Small faience jug covered with gold leaf, and cup with gold branch and traces of fire. Knossos, 1700-1600 BC.

轎子的陶模型。這又是受到古埃及的影響，當時的轎子是用來扛神像或是法老王，這個陶轎子出土於Knossos克諾索西元前1700-1600年。

Bull-shaped rhyta for liquid offerings. Phaistos, 1800-1700 BC.

Rhyta或Rhyton是古希臘的一種角狀杯用來飲酒的容器，可能是動物角金屬或是由陶所製。這個整隻牛的杯子實在太可愛了。出土於四個皇宮之一Phaistos，西元前1800-1700 BC.

Ritual vessels with elaborate decoration, rhyton with a flower-shaped mouth, animal-shaped rhrton and a small jug decorated with figures in an attitude of worship, Phaistos, 1800-1700 BC

這個動物頭型的rhyton杯，看起來很像河馬，不過河馬應該原產於非洲，所以應該又是受到埃及的影響。另外一個小開口的容器上面有膜拜儀式的人物彩繪。出土於Phaistos西元前1800-1700年。 

Three clay rhyta for libations with painted and relief decoration of dots and medallion with relief of a wild-goat. Phaistos, 1800-1700 BC.

三個角狀酒器Rhyta/Rhyton，中間那個有凸點，二邊有圓形彩繪繪有野山羊，出於Phaistos西元前1800-1700年。

◎ Kamares Ware

Palatial Pottery. Kamares Ware
The famous Kamares Ware, one of the most famous ornamental styles in the history of pottery, is named after the Kamares Cave where the vessels were first found. These are luxury vessels produced by palace workshops, mainly those of Phaistos and Knossos(1900-1700 BC.)
Their multiformity and innovative polychrome decoration are accompanied by high craftsmanship, as we can see from the finely made "eggshell" cups. The original and elaborate new shapes are combined with impressive decoration of white and red, purple or orange on black, forming inexhaustible combinations of motifs. Spirals and whorls, rosettes and tassels, petals and shoots, swirl, radiate and circle across the vessels, making each one unique. On some early Kamares pots the decoration is applied to a raised surface, while applied elements are added to some examples of the mature phase.
Kamares Ware, much sought-after both in Crete and outside it, was a luxury product of the Minoan export trade, found throughout the Mediterranean, from the Cyclades and the Pelopennese to Cyprus, Egypt and Syro-Palestine. 

我是覺得這二個器皿看起來有點噁心，大概當時覺得點泥漿讓表面突起是陶藝界的新發現吧，加上凹陷和泥條，然後彩繪燒製。不過細看說明，這種陶器工法可有名的很，叫做Kamares Ware，Kamares是一個洞穴，也就這些陶器最先挖掘到的地方，因為這些花俏的陶器太特別因此都稱為Kamares Ware，這些陶器為傑出的工匠所製，多半供應給Phaistos和Knossos的皇宮御用。而後這些陶器之後也有貿易出口，在地中海其他區域到埃及和以色列巴勒斯坦都有發現到蹤跡。

像這些杯子就超現代超時尚，還是說是現代人模仿古人的馬克杯？

花俏的陶瓶旁邊還會有樸素的「食物調理器」。

更多花俏的陶瓶陶甕這些都是出自於 Phaistos的皇宮。

水果盤。

水壺或是酒壺

像籃子的陶盆

Luxury Kamares vessels from the palace of Phaistos. They still preserve intact the colours of their complex polychrome decoration. Ewers, fruit-stands, cups, amphorae, "teapots", vessels with elaborate spout, bird-shaped vessel and vase depicting a donkey. Phaistos, 1800-1650 BC 

這一個展示廳所展示的大多是Kamares Ware的陶器。出自於Phaistos皇宮，西元前1800-1650年，經過這麼多年，挖掘出土後這些陶器的顏色依然保持這樣鮮豔的顏色，工匠的高度燒窯技術配上當時運用的釉料和顏料，顏色絲毫不受時間的影響，但是中國秦俑上的顏料不是燒出來的，一旦出土顏色都褪了。

我看網路上說中國的茶壺是在唐朝，那可在西元後，但是早在西元前一千八百年前，克里特島的古人就會用這麼花俏的壺來泡藥草茶。

Male and female figurines from the Petsofas Peak Sanctuary. They are well made and richly painted. Some male figurines bear a dagger at the waist, indicating rank or bravery. The female figurines wear tall hats and high-collared bodices. Models of human limbs were also found, probably votive offerings made by worshippers requesting healing. 1900-1700BC.

這些陶偶發現於Petsofas Peak聖殿，稱不上細緻但是都有到位，例如有戰士配匕首來表示身分，女性則是戴高帽穿著高領的衣裙，比較特別的只有四肢的部分，猜測是用來乞求那個部分健康之類的。西元前1900-1700年。

Rock models, some with attached animal figurines, probably parts of three dimensional compositions of mountainous landscapes, 1900-1800 BC 

除了動物造型的捏塑還會有假山假石的陶塑，推測根本就是當時會利用陶土來捏塑3D風景，年代為西元前1900-1800年。

個人覺得這個已經是陶藝的極致表現了。

◎ 前1700- 前1420米諾斯文明晚期（LMI,II,III）=新宮殿時代的陶器

Double jug with strainer decorated with lilies and appliqued birds on the rim. Knossos, 1500-1450 BC.

連雙罐上面彩繪百合花。發現於克諾索，年代為西元前1500-1450年。

Utilitarian and ritual vessels of various shapes decorated with Floral style motifs, spirals, double axes, figure-of-eight shields and scale pattern. Knossos palace and houses, 1500-1450 BC.

進入米諾斯文明的晚期，這時候的陶器與Kamares Ware的風格不一樣，似乎又回歸簡約風。

Cylindrical stand for a clay offering vessel with relief decoration of dolphins and seashellsm and other vases of the early Neopalatial period. Phaistos-palace, 1700-1600 BC.

米諾斯文明與大海息息相關，他們除了有農業也從事海上貿易，這個高瓶上的浮雕為海豚和貝殼，這是屬於Neopalatial新宮殿早期時期的文物，年代為西元前1700-1600年間。 

公牛頭出現了。

米諾斯文明之稱為米諾斯並非考古地名，而是源自於希臘神話當中克里特島國王米諾斯Minos為名。雖然希臘神話故事經常荒誕不經，偏偏都會點到人的特殊癖好。例如米諾斯的戀童癖還有他老婆的動物癖也就是愛上了海神波塞冬送給米諾斯的公牛，他老婆與公牛生的怪物就是迷宮裡的那個牛頭人身的怪物彌諾陶洛斯。迷宮則是代達羅斯（Daedalus）建造，我記得小時候英文有一課就是在講代達羅斯（Daedalus）幫助兒子伊卡洛斯飛出被囚禁的高塔，但這個傻逼靠著老爸長了翅膀以為翅膀硬了可以高飛，結果得意忘形忘了老爸的警告，結果飛太高黏翅膀的蠟融掉，兒子就直直摔到海裡。

Clay model horns of consecration and fragments of ritual vessels with relief bull and feline, Malia, 1600-1450 BC.

除了公牛出現在浮雕上，貓科動物也經常出現。這些陶器是出於Malia年代為西元前1600-1450年間。

Small jars, jugs and cups with floral decoration, double axes, figure-of-eight shields and geometrised motifs. Tripod altar of painted plaster. Archanes-palatial building, 1600-1450 BC.

Strangely shaped amphoras imitating Egyptian prototypes. Archanes-palatial building, 1600-1450 BC.

我記得我在土耳其的博物館也看過公牛頭，公牛的意象似乎在古西方文化不斷出現，到底代表的是甚麼意義？維基百科的Sacred Bull給了我答案。美索不達米亞二河流域文明開始公牛便是神聖的神祉，而在米諾斯文化公牛頭和角便是代表米諾斯的皇宮，而且他們有個重要的儀式就是男女會有bull-leaping的跳跨公牛的動作。

Elaborately decorated large jars have been found in the Minoan palaces, urban houses and peripheral centres. They were used to store and transport liquid commodities such as wine and olive oil. Their decoration with religious symbols, such as double axes and bucrania, and other characteristic themes, such as the octopus, inspired by the Marine Styple, made these vessels valuable disply objects.

除了公牛的意象之外代表米諾斯文明還有雙斧的符號

Conical porphyry rhyton and two ritual vessels. Gournia, 1500-1450 BC.

Two clay wildcat heads, one from a rhyton. Palaikastro, 1500-1450 BC.

Imported Egyptian objects and Cretan imitations: stone miniature jars, cylindrical ointment jar, alabaster(雪花膏大理石) vessel in the shape of a pregnant woman and clay figuriens in the shape of cats' heads, an animal beloved of the Egyptians. Palaikastro, Knossos, Poros-Trypiti, Gournia, Zakros, 1700-1450 BC.

剩下的文物下篇分享。